Last time, the Golf was finally running again. Since then, it has been great. I have only really taken it on one proper joyride with some friends, and other than that I have…

Last time, the Golf was finally running again. Since then, it has been great. I have only really taken it on one proper joyride with some friends, and other than that I have continued driving it carefully. No strange noises from the engine, no smoke, and no new warning lights. So naturally, I decided to start working on something electrical instead: The reverse camera. Testing the aftermarket camera I previously ordered a complete aftermarket flip-camera assembly for the Golf: Flipping Logo Rear Camera for VW Passat Golf ArteonSmarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.comaliexpress.(I chose the dynamic one, non-AHD)This replaces the entire rear emblem mechanism, including the motor and camera, and is designed to work with newer radios such as my RCD 880 Pro (Noname): DE In Stock Noname RCD880PRO Carplay Car Radio MIB Android Auto Player 8Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.comaliexpress.The original camera system was made for the RNS 510, while the RCD 880 Pro expects a normal composite video signal through an RCA connection. The aftermarket camera outputs CVBS, so in theory it should connect directly without needing an additional video converter. Before permanently installing anything, I wanted to test it. The supplied harness replaces the blue camera connector in the Quadlock with one that terminates in a female RCA socket. I connected the camera’s video cable to that, used a fuse tap to provide power, and found a suitable grounding point below the driver-side A-p

Fixing the Original Reverse Camera

Three days after writing about getting scammed, the engine is finally back in the car. That feels pretty good to write. After finishing the engine, the next job was getting it…

Three days after writing about getting scammed, the engine is finally back in the car. That feels pretty good to write. After finishing the engine, the next job was getting it installed, and connecting everything again. Once it was sitting where it belongs, I connected the wiring harness to the engine and spent a lot of time making sure nothing was missing. I probably checked the connectors four times, and I also used old photos from before the engine came out to verify that the wiring was routed correctly. Snapped a photo while working on the wiringAfter that, we installed the front bumper reinforcement and then fitted the front bumper. We also attached the AC lines and replaced a few that were old or damaged. The AC condenser was replaced as well, since the old one was quite beat up and looked like something that would start leaking sooner or later. Before starting the engine, I also replaced all the brake pads and discs. I went with OE Bosch discs and pads, because I wanted something proper and quiet. I am pretty sure running Biltema brakes on a car with around 300 hp is not the best idea, but I am not here to judge the previous owner for their decisions. 0 986 479 058 BOSCH BD997 Bremseskive framaksel, 312x25mm, 9x112, ventilert | AUTODOC pris og erfaringer【SUPERTILBUD❗】⚡️ ➤ 0 986 479 058 BOSCH BD997 Bremseskive framaksel, 312x25mm, 9x112, ventilert ❗ Sjekk ut det store sortimentet hos AUTODOC Norge ✚ gunstige priser ✚ en lang rekke merker.J.Ø. • AUTODOC Norge0 986 479 C2

It Runs Again

So, it has been about a month since the last update. And yes, a lot has happened. Some of it good. Some of it very bad. And some of it so bad that it honestly deserves a huge title…

So, it has been about a month since the last update. And yes, a lot has happened. Some of it good. Some of it very bad. And some of it so bad that it honestly deserves a huge title like this one. Because at some point during this rebuild, I realized something that made my stomach sink a little: I got scammed. Now, before I get into that, let me say one thing straight away: even though this update has a very dramatic title, it does not mean the project is over. Quite the opposite, actually. The engine is now basically done, and the project is very much alive. But to continue the story properly from where I left off last time, I have to talk about what we discovered along the way. Because once the correct bearings finally arrived, things escalated quickly. The bearings were finally correct After all the waiting, all the measuring, and all the messing around with the wrong bearing thickness, the correct crankshaft bearings finally arrived. We installed them, checked the clearance with Plastigage again, and this time it was finally correct. Finally. That was a very nice feeling, because at least it meant we could move on. I also found one of the old bearings, which helped confirm that the colour markings we had used were in fact correct. So for once, we were not guessing. The markings matched, the old bearing supported it, and the Plastigage check confirmed it. So at that point I thought we were in the clear. Naturally, we were not. The moment it all went wrong The next step was 

I Got Scammed

Spoiler alert: No. However, something else came in the mail.

So, it has been about a month since the last update. The engine is surely done now, right? Nope. It is not. Because once again, we are waiting for parts. This time it is not an overpriced timing tool or something weird like that, but bearings. Which is somehow even more annoying, because bearings are quite important if you want the engine to go back together properly. The issue showed up when we checked the bearing clearance with Plastigage. The bearings I had ordered were, unfortunately, not the correct thickness. Not wildly wrong, but wrong enough that they are not going into this engine. On these engines, the block and crankshaft have markings that tell you which bearing thicknesses are needed. The block has the markings for the lower bearings, and the crankshaft has the markings for the upper bearings. On my engine, the block is marked RRRRR, while the crankshaft is marked BGGGG. So basically, I need another set of bearings before we can properly start building the bottom end. Which sucks. At this point, it has been almost two months since the engine came out, and it still feels like there is not a huge amount of progress to show. A lot has happened, but the engine is still not together, and that is the annoying part. Everything is cleaned, checked, measured, prepared, and then put back on hold because one small but important thing is missing. That said, the extra time has not been completely wasted. Since we have been waiting anyway, I have had time to do things properly

Is the engine done yet?

The timing tools finally arrived, the top end is apart, and progress on the rebuild is finally moving again. As a bonus, a fresh set of OZ Formula HLT wheels wrapped in Michelin…

Last time, we were mostly stuck waiting. The timing tools had still not arrived, and progress on the engine was moving at the speed of international shipping updates. Eventually, though, the tools did show up, and we were finally able to get on with one of the jobs I had been dreading the most: removing the cam adjuster bolt that holds the timing assembly together. Thankfully, that part went far better than expected. I'd seen what felt like a hundred videos and forum posts where that bolt either stripped, snapped, or turned into a complete nightmare that had to be drilled out. Somehow, ours came out in one piece. No stripped head, no snapped bolt, no disaster. For once, something actually went our way. That said, the timing tools themselves turned out to be a mess. The set I ordered was anything but premium, despite costing me around 150 euros by the time it landed here. The quality was terrible. Before we had even put much force on it, the tool snapped in half. Like a lot of cheap tools, it was held together with weak hardware, and those bolts gave up almost immediately. So instead of using the shiny new tool I had paid too much money for, we ended up welding it together just to make it usable. Somehow, after that, it was just strong enough to do the job. Needless to say, I would not recommend buying from STR Performance based on this experience. The whole thing felt sketchy from start to finish. The tool arrived in an Amazon box, inside an Autodoc box, and then shipped on t

Engine Rebuild Progress and New Wheels

While we're still waiting for the timing tools to arrive, work on the engine hasn't stopped completely. According to the tracking, the tools are apparently in the country now, but…

While we're still waiting for the timing tools to arrive, work on the engine hasn't stopped completely. According to the tracking, the tools are apparently in the country now, but the only update we've had is still just "Shipped from France", which isn't exactly the most useful status in the world. So rather than sit around waiting, we've been focusing on the block in the meantime. response from STR Performance regarding the timing toolsWe're also waiting on the crankshaft bearings to arrive before we can fully assemble the block again. Until those turn up, and until the timing tools are here, we're in that slightly frustrating stage of an engine rebuild where there's still plenty to do, but a lot of the bigger milestones are on hold. At this point, we've removed the head from the block so we could start working on that separately while continuing with the bottom end. It made sense to split the work up a bit, especially while we're still waiting on tools and parts. That way, we can keep making progress instead of just staring at the tracking page and getting annoyed. With the head off, it also gave us a much better look at the top of the pistons and the condition inside the block. Nothing especially dramatic there, but it's always satisfying to get things properly apart and actually see what you're working with instead of only guessing. cylinder head on the workbenchengine block on the stand with the head removedtop view of the pistons and engine blockOne of the more annoying

Waiting, waiting, waiting...

With the engine safely out of the car, today’s job was all about stripping away the extras and getting down to the important parts. By the end of the day, the engine was pretty…

With the engine safely out of the car, today’s job was all about stripping away the extras and getting down to the important parts. By the end of the day, the engine was pretty much down to just the cylinder head, the block, and the oil pan. Everything else has been coming off piece by piece — intake manifold, exhaust manifold, turbo, alternator, oil cooler, temperature sensor, brackets, hoses, and all the other bits that make the engine look a lot more complete than it really is. Here's a before photo of the engine with all the components attachedAfter stripping it downA lot of today was honestly just careful disassembly. There wasn’t really one big dramatic moment, just a lot of steady progress. Removing parts, sorting them, checking their condition, and making sure everything stays organized as we go. That last part is especially important on a job like this. Every bolt, screw, and bracket is being put back where it belongs or stored with the part it came from. It takes a bit more time now, but it should save a lot of frustration later when the engine starts going back together. Once we had most of the outside components removed, we took off the valve cover and had a look inside. Thankfully, everything there looked pretty decent at first glance. No immediate horror stories, no obvious signs of anything catastrophic, and generally a reassuring sight considering we’re this deep into the engine now. Cylinder head cover removedOf course, the next area we opened up was a bit mo

Stripping the Engine Down

The GTI is finally in the workshop and the engine is out — but not without a few snapped bolts, broken AC lines, and a reminder that rust never makes anything easy

Today we finally started the engine overhaul properly. We got the car into the workshop, up on jacks, and started stripping everything down so we could pull the engine. This is something I’ve been looking forward to for a while, because even though the car has already had a lot of work done, this is where things start getting serious. After removing the front bumper, ready to begin workingWe started by removing the front end of the car, and thankfully that part went surprisingly smoothly. No real issues there. Once that was off, we moved on to the lock carrier area and started freeing everything up so we could get proper access to the engine. After removing the lock carrierThat’s where the rust started reminding us who’s in charge. A lot of the bolts holding the lock carrier and surrounding parts were badly rusted, and most of them were far too crusty to survive removal. Quite a few snapped off, but since some of these parts are being replaced anyway, it’s not the end of the world. Lock carrier down with a small dent in the front. Seems the car was in a small accident?The AC condenser was also in really bad shape. That’s the big radiator-looking unit with all the fins in the front, and this one had clearly seen better days. Since they’re not that expensive, replacing it now just makes sense. A lot of the bolts holding it in place were also heavily corroded, and several of those snapped too — but again, not a huge loss when the part is getting replaced anyway. While dealing wi

Engine Out: Finally Starting the Overhaul

It’s been a while. The last post went up in August. It’s now January. Not because I’ve lost interest in the golf — quite the opposite — but because life has been busy in ways that…

It’s been a while. The last post went up in August. It’s now January. Not because I’ve lost interest in the golf — quite the opposite — but because life has been busy in ways that don’t leave much room for writing. The past months have been filled with work pressure, writing, delivering, and defending my master’s thesis in sustainable web design, while also trying to be present with the people around me. Christmas was spent with my girlfriend and my family, and nearly every visit to her meant fixing something on the car. She lives about two hours away, and I’m fairly sure something has gone wrong almost every single time I’ve driven there. One of the bigger concerns right now is a noise from the suspension. When the car is loaded mid-corner, especially in tighter turns, there’s a sharp snap or clunk — like something shifting into place. The suspension otherwise feels completely normal. No instability, no odd behavior, just that sound. Still, it’s not something I’m comfortable ignoring. Once the car is on a lift, the suspension is coming apart so I can finally see what’s going on. Then there’s the oil consumption... An engine overhaul is no longer optional. I’m currently gathering all the details so I know exactly which parts to order before we put the car on a lift and pull the engine. Worn piston rings are the obvious culprit, and I also suspect the valves aren’t sealing perfectly. While it’s apart, it makes sense to look at engine mounts and suspension components as well. I

Long time, no see?

Today I finally got around to installing the Scorpion resonator delete on the GTI—and wow, what a difference. 📦 It all started with a package at my doorstep.Inside was the Scorpion resonator delete pipe—sleek, solid, and ready to replace the bulky factory resonator. 🧑‍🔧 OEM resonator vs. Scorpion delete comparisonAlso had to do some prep-work before installing the new pipe. 🪛 Removing rust from the mufflerI’ve included two clips to give you the full before-and-after effect. 🎥 Here’s the stock exhaust sound before the install🎥 And here’s how it sounds after the installSwapping it in was straightforward, and the payoff was immediate. The car now has a far more aggressive tone, and for the first time, I can clearly hear the exhaust from inside the cabin. Under load, where it used to be subtle (almost too subtle), it now makes its presence known. In the best way. The DSG shifts are sharper and louder, and in park, it even spits out some pops and bangs that are genuinely grin-worthy. So far, I haven’t noticed any drone in Drive. Around town it’s tame, but when you push it—it delivers. I also edited a video if you'd like to listen to a direct comparison

Scorpion Resonator Delete

It was finally time to install all the new parts that had been piling up since the last post. The car’s been gradually improving, and this round of changes made a big…

It was finally time to install all the new parts that had been piling up since the last post. The car’s been gradually improving, and this round of changes made a big difference—both visually and mechanically. I started with the floor mats. The original ones were in terrible shape—rugged, worn down, and the passenger side had a warped spot that stood out horribly. The new GTI mats, direct from VW, are a brighter gray than I expected, but I think they'll darken with use and a few washes. The old driver side floor mats. These are the original that came with the car, but I felt it would be cool to have floor mats that reflect the car.The brand new original GTI floor matsNext up were the emblems and badges. The car came with blacked-out VW logos and a red front GTI badge. No badge at all on the rear. It looked cheap and completely wrong for a special edition car. So I removed the black logos and replaced them with proper chrome OEM logos. I also installed matching chrome GTI badges on the front and rear. The change is subtle but it brings the car back to its factory-correct look—and honestly, it looks way more refined. The final job was the DSG service. Since it’s unclear when the transmission was last serviced, and it’s approaching the 100,000 km mark, this was overdue. We drained the oil, replaced the filter, and refilled it with OEM fluid. The DQ250 can be tricky to level correctly, but we followed the proper procedure. Shifts now feel smoother—especially at low speeds—and I’m

Installing Floor Mats, Emblems, Logos, and DSG Service

Nothing like discovering a brake fluid puddle the day before your first car meet. Time to rebuild (or replace) a leaking GTI caliper—fast.

I noticed a strange puddle under the car—it wasn’t gas or oil. Turns out, it was brake fluid. One of my rear calipers was leaking, and not just a little. Since GTI calipers are pricey, I first tried a rebuild kit. Disassembly took some figuring out. The Edition 35 calipers aren’t like others I’ve worked on. The retaining ring design was bizarre—we ended up whacking the back of the caliper with a hammer. Apparently there is no retaining ring, meaning it's fine to remove it this way (or so we thought). before figuring out that all we had to do was twist the brass ring out. As you can see, there's an edge the bronze retainer hooks onto. All we had to do was twist it clockwise to loosen it.We finally removed the piston and replaced the seals... only to find the culprit: a rust path behind the seal. Time was tight—I had a big group drive the next day. So, off to the auto parts store I went to buy a new caliper. Crisis (barely) averted.

Brake Fluid Leak and a Caliper Headache

After weeks of battling misfires, a dodgy seller, and some painful re-installs, I’ve finally taken steps toward fixing the injector issue for good.

Ever since we installed the new injectors, the car’s been misfiring at idle. After some back and forth, it turned out one of the new injectors was faulty. The seller insisted I ship it back at my expense, and while I eventually got a refund, I didn’t want to deal with this again. Lesson learned: stick to trusted sellers. Stay away from this seller. Even if you can't find a part anywhere else, please stay away. I ordered from this shop because they were the only option I had. Now after a few months, other stores have got their hands on the parts I need, and I'd much rather order from the reputable sellers over this shop...So I ordered a brand new Bosch injector from OEMVWShop.com—finally, some peace of mind. While waiting, I had also ordered a few fun (and necessary) items from the same shop: Original chrome VW emblems (front &amp; rear) Chrome GTI badges (front &amp; rear) GTI floor mats (to replace the worn-out ones) Yellow dipstick tube (Golf R spec, more robust than the old orange one) Exhaust bracket New O-ring for the EVAP tube Wheel center caps (the originals were... let’s say “tired”) DSG service kit (DQ250, should be serviced every 60,000 km)

Injector Trouble and a Real Fix

Swapped out injectors and battled wiring mishaps while chasing a stubborn misfire

For the past few weeks, I’ve been trying to get my "brand new" injectors to work. I discovered that one injector was stuck open, so I contacted the seller for a replacement. When he said, "Customer pays for shipping," I decided instead to try a different cylinder. It’s odd if only one injector is faulty out of four, so we decided to gamble a little. Initially, we installed all four injectors, and it turned out that injector number 4 was bad. Cylinder Injector Type 1 New injector 2 New injector 3 New injector 4 New injector (BAD!) To troubleshoot, I replaced it with our original good injector (see my previous post), swapping things around. Cylinder Injector Type 1 New injector 2 New injector 3 Original good injector 4 New injector I may have made another mistake when reinstalling the injectors—I applied dielectric grease in the connectors, a substance electricians use to protect against debris and moisture, thinking it would help prevent salt buildup from our extremely salty roads. However, our electrician friend later advised against it, and we ended up attempting to clean it out. After this, the engine misfires at idle (though it runs fine under load), and I suspect the issue might due to the grease. After driving the car for a few days—avoiding idling as much as possible—the misfire persisted in one cylinder. So, I removed the manifold again, disassembled each connector, and thoroughly cleaned them with brake cleaner and compressed air. Once everything was clean, we reinsta

Injector Trials & Wiring Woes

Found genuine Bosch 0261500037 injectors, but a stripped manifold thread and a persistent vacuum leak are keeping me busy—just another step in the journey to restore this Edition…

I finally managed to get my hands on four original Bosch 0261500037 injectors in near-perfect condition. Based on the inscription date, they’re from 2012—only missing the VW/Audi logo. We suspect it might be because they were surplus units never officially stamped for OEM distribution, but either way, they’re genuine Bosch quality and a solid upgrade. The old injectors were dated 2009, which is a bit odd for a 2012 model, but maybe the factory used leftover stock. Even though the new injectors included O-rings, I swapped in the fresher ones I bought a few months back during the engine service. "Brand new" (from 2012) Bosch 0261500037 injectors on the left, and the old original injectors from 2009 on the right.I haven’t actually installed these injectors yet, because I discovered a new problem with the manifold. The previous owners somehow stripped the threads where the throttle body attaches, causing it to sit loosely. Until I fix or replace the manifold, there’s no point in fitting the new injectors. Small hiccups like this aren’t surprising, given how much questionable work has been done on this car. While working on the engine, I also discovered a small vacuum leak. A few months ago, I replaced the PCV with the “N” revision, which is supposed to solve lean idle issues—some people suspect the “P” revision can be problematic. Initially, I thought I’d made the right choice, but ever since installing the new PCV, the car has been idling strangely. I’m not sure if the PCV is ac

Genuine Bosch Injectors and Salty Roads

With a new ECU, smoother shifts, and winter-ready tires, the GTI feels closer than ever to its original factory perfection.

With the new ECU installed, the GTI is finally back on the road—and the difference is night and day. Gone is the overly sensitive throttle, and the shifts now feel buttery smooth. It’s starting to feel like the car is back to its factory standards, both in how it drives and how it looks. It’s been a long journey, but moments like this make it all worth it. With the engine behaving itself, the next step was to address the winter tires. The old ones were hardened with age, and since we live further north than the previous owner, our winters are far more challenging. We deal with unpredictable weather where snow often melts and refreezes into ice, and the city’s attempts to add gravel only end with it sinking under the ice. Proper winter tires aren’t a luxury here—they’re a necessity. The old winter tires. It is a studless tire, which you probably could guess sucks on ice.I originally wanted Nokian Hakkapeliitta 10s for the GTI, but due to the unusual 18" rim size, no local tire shop could get them in stock. Ordering them online would have meant extra costs for shipping and handling, so I settled on Continental IceContact 3s. They might not be as renowned as the Nokians, but with careful driving, they’ll do just fine. Driving in winter here means taking it easy on icy corners and staying alert regardless of tire brand. Now that the car is stable and equipped for winter, we’re down to a few last tasks. The injectors we got back from BAR-TEK in Germany came back with issues—three 

Back on the Road

Winter is here, and after failed cross-flash attempts, I’m replacing my ECU—at least we had some snowy fun while prepping the other cars!

As winter approaches, we’re still grappling with the frustrating ECU issues on my 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35. Despite all our efforts, the car’s original ECU refuses to cooperate. After numerous failed attempts to flash it—using tools like KESS, MPPS, ODIS Engineering, and even BDM—we concluded that the ECU might have custom firmware installed by the previous owners. To resolve this, we purchased a similar ECU with the same MED 9.1 version, hoping to cross-flash it with the correct software. Unfortunately, this didn’t work. Either we sourced the wrong ECU, or cross-flashing simply isn’t possible with this type of hardware. After spending nearly 300 euros trying to make it work, it became clear we needed a better solution. Now, I’ve decided to bite the bullet and purchase a used ECU that should come with stock firmware pre-installed. While it’s going to cost around 800 euros, this seems to be the only reliable way to get the car running properly again. Fingers crossed that this will be the fix we’ve been searching for! In the meantime, winter preparations are in full swing. We’ve stored our other cars for the season, but not before having a bit of fun in the snow. Check out some of the pictures and videos we captured during our winter escapades! Cars ready to be stored for the winterGolf "R32" (GTI) 4wd k04 1.8TVolkswagen Bora 4wd k04 1.8T

Winter Ready Cars

After multiple failed attempts with MPPS, KESS, and Odis Engineering, my GTI’s ECU is still stuck with a bad tune—hoping K-TAG will finally restore it to stock

The ongoing saga of tuning my 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35 has been nothing short of a nightmare. When I first got the car, it was clear the previous owners had messed with the engine map, leaving it with a horrible tune. The throttle was ridiculously sensitive—just a small press of the pedal felt like I was giving it 50% throttle, and it was popping and crackling like crazy. It was nearly impossible to drive smoothly, and I was desperate to get the car back to stock. The engine bay or car, with the ECU removedWe started by searching the internet for a stock engine map, hoping to replace the awful tune with something more sensible. After some digging, we found a site selling .ori files for $20, so we decided to give it a try. Our first attempt was with MPPS, a tool we thought would let us flash the stock map onto the ECU. The process was quick, taking only 10-15 minutes, and when it was finished, the software said, “ECU write complete”. But when we started the car, the result was exactly the same—the throttle was still too sensitive, and the popping tune was still there. MPPS flashing processNext, we tried KESS, but the same issue happened again. The throttle was still unpredictable, and the car still sounded like it had a popcorn tune. So, we decided to try Odis Engineering, hoping that using an authentic VW tool would finally fix the problem. I contacted a few dealerships to see if they could help, but one response really stuck with me. When I explained the car had been badly t

The Pain of Tuning My GTI

Fed up with the 'riced up' look of smoked rear lights, I swapped them for original GTI Mk6 lights, giving the Edition 35 a more refined and color-matching appearance

The car came with smoked black rear lights, which can look great on cars like a white or black Golf, but on my blue Edition 35, they just didn’t suit the color. The lights gave off a “riced up” vibe, making the car look like it was owned by an 18-year-old, which I definitely didn’t want. So, I decided to replace them with original GTI Mk6 rear lights, **almost **identical to the Edition 35's (slightly brigther, Golf R and ed. cars have dimmed versions). The smoked black rear lights that didn’t fit with the blue color of the car.I started by contacting several scrapyards, asking for prices on regular Golf rear lights. One scrapyard quoted me a ridiculous 650 euros for worn, old lights that were far from perfect. However, a breakthrough came when Sigurd sent me a Facebook Marketplace listing for original GTI rear lights in near-perfect condition. The seller was asking only 1200 DKK (160 euros), claiming they were “brand new.” The Marketplace listing for the original GTI rear lights in excellent condition.I quickly got in touch to confirm the condition and shipping to Norway, and after receiving a positive response, I made the purchase. The total came to 254 euros, including shipping and import fees—half the price of those scrapyard lights. When I received the lights, I found that while they were used and had some minor scratches, they were in far better condition than the alternatives. A simple polish would restore them to near-new quality. How the lights came packagedThe rear 

Replacing the Smoked Rear Lights

Restoring the original exhaust on my 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35 has made it quietly refined for commutes while delivering a satisfying growl when pushed

When I first got my 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35, I knew there were some things that would need fixing to restore it to its original glory. One of the most notable issues was the exhaust. The car came with exhaust leaks that were affecting both the sound and performance, and I was eager to get those fixed. After restoring the original exhaust, the difference was incredible. Not only did the car sound much better, but it also became a joy to drive. The most striking thing is how quiet the car is during city driving. With the exhaust leaks fixed and the original exhaust back in place, it’s nearly as quiet as any other car on the road. There's no annoying drone, even when cruising at low speeds, which makes it perfect for those daily commutes. For the first time, I could drive to work—45 minutes each way on the highway—without being bothered by a loud or intrusive sound. But it’s not all about silence. When you press the pedal and give the car some power, that’s when the magic happens. The exhaust comes to life, emitting a deep, satisfying growl that announces the car’s performance without being overbearing. The sound is distinct, but it’s not too loud. It’s the perfect balance between power and refinement. It’s noticeable enough to differentiate the GTI from the standard cars you see around town, but it’s not the kind of sound that draws unwanted attention. What’s great about the original exhaust is that it doesn’t scream for attention at every moment, but it’s ready to show its pe

Fixing My GTI’s Exhaust

After a journey of repairs and new injectors, the GTI is finally road-ready—here’s a look at what went into getting it back on track and the results from its first test drive

As the title suggests, the car is now running. However, it's not been an easy task. Before we share the details of how healthy it's running, let's go through the process of putting it all back together. First and foremost, we received the injectors from BAR-TEK in Germany, and with them came a report of their performance. As you can see, three of the boxes have "UNDLICHT" written on them, which is quite weird as it is not even a german word? However, when we check the spreadsheet it is clear why they have been marked: The results from BAR-TEK testing and servicing the injectors. Check out the exact numbers here. (make sure to select the correct sheet in the bottom left "Injector Service BAR-TEK")As we can see on the screenshot above, all cylinders do not pass a leakage test before service (indicated by the red "Nok"). However, cylinder 2 appears to be ok after servicing. The rest of the injectors are sadly leaking, which could lead to some hefty engine damage over time. Therefore, it is necessary to replace them soon. Despite three injectors leaking, the improvements from before to after is magnificent (check out the numbers in the "Dynamic sec?" row on before and after!). I would highly recommend to test your injectors at a shop like BAR-TEK, to ensure your injectors are good to go. You could also save a few bucks, if servicing fixes any leaks (as we see with cylinder 2). Something I do not recommend though is to use the seals that come with the injectors. Sadly, the seals w

Smooth Drive with "New" Injectors

After countless hours and parts sourced from everywhere, the GTI’s engine rebuild is almost complete—here’s what we’ve done so far and what’s next on the journey

Since purchasing the car, we've already covered a lot of maintenance required to get the car running smoothly. A lot of packages have been sent both internationally and domestically, and a lot of old engine parts are now swimming in the bin. While working on the car, we have replaced the following parts: HPFP Cam follower Old battery Vapor canister Evaporation hose PCV breather valve PCV seal Serpentine belt Serpentine tensioner lever Timing belt Timing belt tensioner Timing belt deflections Water pump Inlet manifold gasket Rocker cover gasket We've also removed a rubber dog bone insert that made the car really stiff. The reason we removed it was because the car would shake violently at low RPM's. This was a huge problem, and made driving the car in the city quite unbearable. What's remaining in our current plan is: Replacing: Coolant thermostat Oil filter housing Fuel filter Evaporation hose seal Hood hinges Custom tune with stock tune Installing: The tested and serviced injectors, from BAR-TEK, Germany , with new seals Focal IS VW 165 woofers (plug &amp; play woofers, similar to Dynaudio quality) Performing: Oil change DSG fluid change We also need to visit the scrapyard to find some original woofer connectors. The previous owners replaced the original Dynaudio woofers with cheap ones, throwing away the old connectors in the process. These connectors are universal, and can be found on any VW Golf (and most likely other VW models). The original VW woofer connector, needed to

Breathing Life Into the Engine

Replaced the cheap battery and cleaned the intake valves with soda blasting to improve performance and tackle misfires

With the hood open, we got a closer look at the engine bay, and the first thing we noticed was the cheap, poor-quality battery installed in the car. Whoever owned this car before clearly didn’t care enough to put a decent battery in it. The result? Poor starts and inconsistent performance. The battery was the absolute cheapest model, retailing at just 899 NOK (about 75€). It’s hard to believe such a low-quality part ended up in a car like this, and who knows when it was last replaced. Needless to say, we swapped it out for a much better one to ensure reliable starts moving forward. Quite literally the cheapest battery money can buy for this car. Retailing at 899,- NOK, 75€.Moving on to the intake, we decided to take a deeper dive by removing the intake manifold to inspect the intake valves. As expected, the valves were incredibly dirty, and there were several lines and seals that desperately needed replacing. We also removed the cylinder head cover, and it became clear that the seals were crusty and had likely never been replaced. Thankfully, we’re doing a thorough service, so this is all part of the process. The cylinder head cover removed, revealing worn-out seals.We performed a leak-down test, and fortunately, there were no major issues. Cylinder 3, in particular, showed no signs of leakage. Cylinder 3 shows no signs of leakage during the leak down test.Then we turned our attention to the intake valves, which were dirty as hell. We knew cleaning them was a priority. After 

What I Found Under the Hood

Restoring my Golf GTI Edition 35 to stock: tackling mods, rust, and other issues while tracking parts and progress in a detailed plan

Now that I own a 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35, a rare and limited model, my goal is to restore it to its original stock condition. Unlike many enthusiasts, I’m not aiming for high-performance upgrades like Stage 1, 2, or 3 tuning. Norway's strict regulations and road conditions make such modifications impractical, especially for a car with 180,000 km on the odometer. This car has seen its fair share of mods by previous owners, so I’ve created a detailed parts spreadsheet to track costs and prioritize tasks. The journey to return it to stock has a few key milestones: Exhaust Leak Before anything else, we need to inspect the car's underside to determine the extent of the leak. 2. EVAP System Issue Swapping to a new EVAP canister should fix this, and the parts are already on the way. 3. Battery Replacement The current battery is old and worn out. Replacing it is a straightforward fix. 4. ECU Tune The ECU is running a strange program, causing a rich air-fuel ratio. Restoring the stock tune should resolve this. 5. Rusted Hood Hinges The hood hinges are heavily rusted and need replacing—a simple yet necessary task. 6. Interior Cleaning While the interior is mostly stock, it hasn’t been properly cleaned by the seller. A deep cleaning will likely reveal more issues to address. 7. Rust Management There are small rust spots on the car, which will be addressed during a repaint. For now, we’ll document and monitor these areas to ensure they don’t worsen. Golf GTI 35 EditionGoogle DocsA detai